Friday, October 17, 2008

11:28 PM

In the waning light we all trudged across the tarmac, marched up the metal ladder and stumbled over each other in the aisle, and by the time the wings were de-iced I knew that many of us were failing to tiptoe around the tears. And I cursed the propeller moan, I hoped that suddenly someone would discover Bernoulli's principle void in Churchill. But we left the ground and it was over.

Now, when I say it was over, I'm really quite wrong. I've just turned the page to a new chapter in my life, and when I flip back to the times preceding camp I see a girl very unlike the present Elizabeth. I am astonished by the change in my own attitudes that have occurred in the past week. I've abandoned my former opinion that Earth is good but Man is an intruder who inevitably spoils it; now I am optimistic about our capability to work WITH the planet through compromise and respect. I have become much more sensitive to the different sides of any issue, for that approach helps me to support my own stance and to find points of agreement with others.

I am surprised by the emotion I felt during and after the helicopter ride we took to the maternal denning area. There's something about soaring over the land that makes you feel you are its steward. You can see out to a further horizon than is visible on the ground, and see the sun pop through the clouds now and then, illuminating vast forests and bogs beneath you. Having so much in your field of vision makes you see the big picture. The land is beautiful and if we continue to quibble over minor details, we will let it slip away.

My generation must provide an environmental turning point. We were born into a world with wild polar bears, and to leave the world with none would be an inexcusable tragedy.

I'm not used to Memphis yet and I'm not sure if I ever will be. This has been a lightning bolt of a week, flashing by with so many new faces and such magnificence. It seems I've been hit over the head with a new electricity; my views changed and my eyes opened. As an individual, I don't feel powerful, but I DO feel empowered.

I miss the way sunrise and sunset look out there when the sky reflects its orange-creamsicle light in the tidal flats. I miss the squishy lichen on the ground and the happy claustrophobia of sleeping in a bunk bed. I miss the second family I've found and been forced to leave after such an ephemeral meeting. But now I hope that we will all change our ways for the good of the tundra and the good of the earth.

Monday, October 13, 2008

4:47 PM

I have been incredibly moved by two experiences in the last twenty-four hours: witnessing the northern lights for the first time and the presentation by the three passionate fur trappers Jim, Betty, and Parker.

Aurora Borealis was an experience I will not waste words to describe. They CAN'T be described. I can tell you that they were emerald and red, that they appeared as a faint streak over us and intensified over the course of a few hours, that the solar wind turned the sky into an ionic ballet production. But, this phenomenon is too elusive to capture in any medium. Although I had seen countless photographs, I did not understand what it was all about until it was really shimmering over my head. Yes, I brought a tripod and planned to use it, but when it turned on last night I didn't bother to ruin the experience by fiddling with camera gear through it all.

Ever since receiving and discussing the down-and-fur Canada Goose parkas given us on day one, my perceptions of fur have shifted from my previous negative stance. However, the presentation about trapping by Jim, Betty, and Parker turned all my views upside-down. I was okay with wearing the parkas, but I still had a gut feeling that fur was wrong except in the case of traditional native garments or the need for a truly warm coat.

These trappers displayed a deep and lifelong connection with the northern environment. They expressed the necessity to respect the animals and their surroundings, taking care to trap an appropriate number every season and to use the most advanced and humane traps. Since they use appropriate methods, they cause minimal long-term damage to the land. They also use the animal for purposes such as meat after it is skinned.

I learned that the anti-fur movement arguably caused more animal suffering than had been here before. Suddenly pelts were of no worth, and in one year when trapping ceased the fox population grew explosively, becoming weak and susceptible to disease. Mange affected many. Fur fell out; multitudes died slowly from exposure to snow. This supports the idea that trappers have become a part of the land, managing the population. However, I definitely agree with animal rights activists on factory farms. I believe that today's factory fur is certainly an inhumane and wasteful product.

It may seem contradictory to common belief, but I saw that these trappers love animals just as much as others who might be opposed to the use of any animal products. These strong people understand animal ways in the wild, and they know that in reality death is just part of a wild animal's harsh life.

So, I entered this camp as someone who would squeal and turn away at the mall when I came upon anything made of fur. I leave with a completely different attitude, having spoken to people who know the land.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

6:42 PM

Today I am sharing several of the photos I've been taking for the past few days!

Hello, Morning Bear! Who needs an alarm clock out on the tundra when you have this fellow to wake you up?

This evening's sunset was irresistible. We all stormed out of the lodge lounge to stare, and I took photos until my frozen fingers refused to push the camera buttons.

Here comes the more curious of the two cubs we've been seeing with the mom. As a unit we call the group "MC-squared."

When a bear passes away, it can live on in spirit, especially if we use whatever we can for educational purposes. This is the front of a pelt on display at the interpretive center for Parks Canada.

Passing through the entrance of L-50 was like entering a rusted time capsule. I could not get over how spooky the shadows made me feel while noise from the wind echoed coldly against the walls.

Saturday, October 11, 2008

8:04 PM

Today we better acquainted ourselves with the transitional zone between boreal forest and tundra. Since I am originally from Florida, I kept seeing an odd similarity between the marshy flatland and the Everglades! Both are vast, flat, and covered with soggy marsh grass. Of course, instead of alligators we saw polar bears'a mother and two cubs who we met yesterday.

My conscience twitched when we watched one of the cubs pick up a piece of trash by the side of the buggy trail. It made me wonder whether we were causing a significant disturbance in the bears' behavior by visiting them repeatedly in these massive, noisy vehicles. That trash wouldn't have been there if it weren't for the presence of tourists in the tundra, or other people in the area ' hunters, or hikers. And, from my perception of things, the bears seemed irked by the noise and the presence of the vehicles, which would stop for a long time to let us stare and snap photos. The buggies followed large, muddy tracks winding through the lichen and shrubbery.

However, I feel that ecotourism here near Churchill has had an overall positive effect on the education of people from around the world. The attitude of the companies who take visitors out on the tundra seems very respectful of the animals and the environment. The tourists are here to admire the beauty of the ecosystem rather than to hunt and annoy the bears by gawking. The buggies also follow old military roads that have been there for many years, and take care not to stray from the already-made tracks.

Historically, polar bears near Churchill were often shot. But the polar bear is a powerful symbol, and eventually realized that bears would be a great source of tourism. The bears notice and pay attention to the buggies, sometimes even walking up to them to investigate, but I haven't observed any significant stress. Although wary of the vehicles, they are fairly accustomed to them. My opinion now is that as long as the number of tourists out on the land every day does not get out of hand, and as long as procedures continue to be followed so that human visitors avoid harassing the animals or feeding them, tourism such as this should continue in the area. About ten thousand people come here every year to see the bears. I'm sure that most, upon their return home, share the beautiful experiences they had. Why save polar bears if nobody is allowed to come see them? Travel to this area of the world raises global awareness and excitement for this ecosystem.

Surprises punctuate everything we do here. While preparing presentations with our groups, we were interrupted by frequent shouts of 'FOX! FOX!' and scrambled to turn on the cameras and open the windows. An arctic fox circled the camp for several hours, searching for food, darting in and out of shrubs. Photographs, no matter how hard we tried, could not capture its spirit.

Friday, October 10, 2008

9:42 PM

Today everything flew by in a surreal patchwork of adventures! Seeing the bears for the first time is definitely something that will stay with me for the rest of my life. However, of all the places and people I encountered today, I must say that setting foot in L-50 was the exceptional although brief experience. Walking through the dark rooms, I wandered among the old equipment and debris and felt the presence of experiments long gone. The studies of the scientist Dr. Watts is cloaked with dispute; here at L-50 in the sixties and seventies he exposed three polar bears to oil to study its health effects. Unfortunately, the bears cleaned the oil from their coats by licking and therefore ingesting it. They died shortly thereafter. Seeing the building for myself had me spellbound, for all around there were old buckets, rusted equipment, broken windows, creaky cages. But what equally captivated me was the debate surrounding the morality of this experiment. After the bears died, Watts was driven out of town, BUT to this day he is the most cited scientist for the subject of oil's effects on bears. Was the data worth the sacrifice of three bears? Was Dr. Watts cruel and unfeeling, or did he love the bears but see the big picture, wanting to help them through necessary but painful sacrifices?

Let's consider the details. The bears Watts used were 'problem bears,' bears that were caught at the dump causing problems with humans. Since they had grown accustomed to humans, they were likely to live unhealthy lives and eventually be shot. Watts also didn't know that the animals were to die. He aimed to study the effects on their health in other ways, such as their metabolism, their behavior, and changes in their fur's properties. The scientists were actually surprised when the bears died so suddenly, for very little was known about the results oil exposure would have. We have to consider that animal experimentation is necessary for the advancement of many fields, fields that help not only people but also animals. However, in many cases animal testing IS carried out with ignorance and corruption. As a society we should be vigilant to be sure that any detrimental live animal testing will bring real benefits and be carried out as humanely as possible.

I am sharing these examples of different stances rather than my own specific personal beliefs because this camp has been teaching me so much about compromise and the necessity to respect others' opinions. My personal example of this new attitude is the situation with our (very lovely and warm!) parkas from Canada Goose. I came to Leadership Camp believing that the use of animal products in clothing was immoral. However, I have come to realize that, especially in the case of special necessity, animal product use is arguably warranted. I definitely admire those who adopt a vegan lifestyle. But, considering my own habits, I feel that the coyote fur and duck down in my parka are perhaps no 'worse' than the meat I eat on a regular basis. Among my fellow campers I sense a unique kind of open-mindedness that transcends some of the more idealistic conservationism I encounter now and then.

And, did I mention how COLD IT IS OUT HERE!?